1933 medal to commemorate Nazareno Strampelli. One side shows a plough and ears of wheat, the other a profile of Mussolini and an ear of wheat with the motto Più fondo il solco, più alto il destino; The deeper the furrow, the higher the destiny.

Norman Borlaug created the wheats that created the Green Revolution. They had short stems that could carry heavy ears of wheat, engorged by loads of fertiliser. They were resistant to devastating rust diseases. And they were insensitive to daylength, meaning they could be grown almost anywhere.

A...

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A hand holds a bunch of wheat stalks, with ears, of the variety Red Fife.

For more than 40 years, one wheat variety dominated the Canadian prairies. Red Fife — the red-seeded wheat grown by David Fife, a Scottish immigrant — gave the highest yields of the best quality. It almost didn’t happen, if you believe the stories. And then, having set the standard, Red Fife was e...

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Vavilov’s desk, on which is an inkstand and a map showing one of his plant collecting missions

This short episode fails to do justice to the man who, more than anyone, first grasped the importance of knowing where and how wheat arose. It does, however, explain why Vavilov wanted to collect the building material of future food security, for wheat and many other crops. In more than 60 countri...

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Artwork from a cereal packet of Organic Kamut Flakes with raisins, showing a supposed Egyptian person holding a bowl of breakfast cereal

Kamut® is a modern wheat — registered and trademarked in 1990 — with an ancient lineage. The word is ancient Egyptian, and the hieroglyphics may literally mean “Soul of the Earth”. More prosaically, “bread”. The story of its discovery and growing popularity says a lot about our hunger for stories....

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On the left, seeds and an ear of bread wheat, which is free threshing. The seeds are easily separated from the ear and the chaff that surrounds them. On the right, ear and "seeds" of einkorn, a hulled wheat. The seeds remain surrounded by the tough protective layers. Photo by Mark Nesbitt.

Ancient grains used to be rare and hard to find not because they contained some magical secret for a long and fulfilled life, but because they take a lot more work than modern wheats. Instead of the wheat berry popping free after a gentle rubbing, they need to be bashed and pounded. Now, of course...

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