Three women seated on the ground in front of a building. On the left, a woman in a red dress has her hands in a bowl of wheat seeds. On the right, a woman in a blue dress holds the handle of a rotary quern. On the far right, a woman in white feeds wheat into the hole in the centre of the quern. From a 1912 postcard entitled Peasants Grinding Corn at Jerusalem.

It has been a long time since anyone who wanted to eat bread had to first grind their wheat. Grinding, however, was absolutely fundamental to agricultural societies, and still is for some. Archaeologists can see how the work left its mark on the skeletons of the women who ground the corn in the va...

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Miniature models of two women grinding flour, a man shaping loaves, and a man tending the oven. From a model in the tomb of Meketre, Metropolitan Musdeum of Art, Rogers Fund and Edward S. Harkness Gift, 1920

It’s a good thing the Egyptians believed strongly in an afterlife and wanted to make sure their dead had an ample supply of bread. The bread and the tomb inscriptions tell us something about how grain was grown and bread baked. To really understand the process, however, you need to be a practical-...

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Close-up of wheat bran (brown and flaky), flour (white and powdery), and germ (also brown and flaky)

That kernel of wheat isn’t actually a seed or a berry, at least not to a botanist. I have no intention of getting into the whole pointless is-it-a-fruit-or-a-vegetable debate, so lets just agree that no matter what you call it, the wheat thing is made up of three major parts: bran, endosperm and g...

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Trial plots of two wheat varieties. In front a commercial variety, wilted and collapsing, while behind it a synthetic derivative copes just fine with the drought.

Wheat has a hugely diverse genetic background, being made up of three different species, and genetic diversity is what allows breeders to find the traits they need to produce wheats that can cope with changing conditions. But because the accidents that created wheat might have happened just the on...

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1933 medal to commemorate Nazareno Strampelli. One side shows a plough and ears of wheat, the other a profile of Mussolini and an ear of wheat with the motto Più fondo il solco, più alto il destino; The deeper the furrow, the higher the destiny.

Norman Borlaug created the wheats that created the Green Revolution. They had short stems that could carry heavy ears of wheat, engorged by loads of fertiliser. They were resistant to devastating rust diseases. And they were insensitive to daylength, meaning they could be grown almost anywhere.

A...

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