A New American Stone Mill under construction. In the foreground, the gray millstone incised with the grooves that will shear and then grind the wheat as it rotates. Behind, a man in a welding mask is working on the metal frame, his face lit by the intense blue arc of the welder. Sonme tools rest on top of the stone.

Without a doubt, the most important trend in the resurgence of baking with care is the increasing use of small mills by keen home bakers and professionals alike. Better nutrition and stunning flavour are the obvious benefits. Less visible, a renewal of local grain growing and closer links between farmers and bakers, all in search of better wheats.

Listen to Slow, but Exceedingly Fine at Eat This Podcast.

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