Woodcut showing the stages of making of bread in bakeries and, below the images, details of prices. From The Assize of Bread 1608

The very first English law about food regulated the size of a standard loaf of bread. The Assize of Bread and Ale kept the price constant, but that price bought more or less bread depending on the price of wheat. It never was a very useful system, for bakers or bread buyers, but it survived from a...

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Monochrome imatge of an Italian ciabatta, sliced open, and showing the open airy crumb typical of ciabatta.

The one thing to be thankful for in the rise of fast factory bread is that it prompted the resurgence of small, artisan bakers. They have been goaded to produce breads that are better in every way than even the best breads of years gone by. It may seem at times if their focus is on traditions from...

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A New American Stone Mill under construction. In the foreground, the gray millstone incised with the grooves that will shear and then grind the wheat as it rotates. Behind, a man in a welding mask is working on the metal frame, his face lit by the intense blue arc of the welder. Sonme tools rest on top of the stone.

Without a doubt, the most important trend in the resurgence of baking with care is the increasing use of small mills by keen home bakers and professionals alike. Better nutrition and stunning flavour are the obvious benefits. Less visible, a renewal of local grain growing and closer links between...

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Monochrome image of a baker putting loaf tins into an oven. The baker wears a pristine white chef's hat and is leaning forward on the right. The oven door on the left is open to receive the tins, which are lined up on a wooden peel.

The fight between brown and white, good for you versus good for us, has been going on for a long time. Brown flour certainly ought to be more nutritious, and these days, even the elites are choosing brown bread over white. Maybe that’s why sales of “whole grain bread” have more than tripled in t...

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Artwork from a cereal packet of Organic Kamut Flakes with raisins, showing a supposed Egyptian person holding a bowl of breakfast cereal

Sourdough — whatever you call it — is the original leavening agent for breads around the world. At its simplest it is just a piece of the last batch of dough, set aside to ferment the current batch. But it can be so much more than that, a stable little ecosystem of species that support one another...

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